Author Topic: First work on the boards: MG Freedom  (Read 7966 times)

November 16, 2006, 04:29:33 AM
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GlauG

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First off a quick hello to everyone!  A friend of mine pointed me at these boards a little while ago, and I've been lurking for a bit, but I've yet to post any models of my own (unless you count a scratchbuilt Kampher-sized Luger... >_> ).  This one's nothing hugely special, it's a MG Freedom that was going to be used for the Core-Works Strike Freedom conversion until I had a huge falling out with the person who gave me the kit, causing some bad memories, and I discovered that Bandai's MG Strike Freedom looked as nice as the C-W version anyway.  Accordingly, I'm doing  this up as the regular Freedom, using a few bits from the C-W kit and a few small mods.  The beam sabers have aluminium tube beam emitters, the hips are double-ball-jointed and make the legs a /lot/ more poseable as well as look longer.  Other small things are using the C-W resin head with the original Freedom's crest, using a modified S-F central torso piece, and the knees/feet.

I'm probably about 80-80% done with this now, the white needs another coat at least to fix some errors and the light blue might get one as well.  I also need to mask off and paint the red in the middle of the chest, I'm just not looking forward to it. <_<;

My main problem with this has been that I've had hell getting paint to stick to the resin parts.  I've washed them and primed them with Mr Surfacer (and later Mr Resin Surfacer) but I still didn't get much further.  I had to give them a clear topcoat which I gave about 48 hours to dry, and it seems okay now, no more flaking.  Any suggestions/crits/comments are welcome.  I'm not as happy with this so far as I could be TBH, I feel that I've done a bit better in a few ways on previous kits (and I'll subject you all to those in another thread sometime :P).

November 16, 2006, 04:31:44 AM
Reply #1

fulcy

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What were you washing the resin parts with?  Sometimes it takes more than just hot water and soap to get mold release off the parts...

November 16, 2006, 05:44:58 AM
Reply #2

GlauG

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Hot water, soap, and a toothbrush.  Wasn't really sure what else I could use safely.  A fried of  mine recommended sanding the parts lightly, but I'd already painted everything by that point.  What else would you recommend for removing mould release?

November 16, 2006, 06:01:46 AM
Reply #3

fulcy

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Resin is pretty resilient - use a stronger household cleaning agent, like Mr. Clean, Formula 409, Pine Sol, etc...

November 16, 2006, 02:23:33 PM
Reply #4

clee-cm

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I will second the recommendation that you can try is sanding all of the surfaces with some very fine sand paper, this will provide the  primer with something to grab on to.

After you sand the parts down wash them good, then give the primer a few days to set. remember do not sand to hard, you do not want to destroy the detail on the surface.

I use Tamiya White Primer for my models, yes it is expensive but worth a try on your next Resin Kit. If you need to, take a can of Easy-Off spray the model with it, and remove the paint, then start over again.
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November 16, 2006, 03:45:39 PM
Reply #5

FichtenFoo

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It doesn't look too bad. Some of the paint looks a bit thick though... especially the metallic parts.

I've heard that soaking resin in Castrol Super Clean does wonders.

November 16, 2006, 04:33:52 PM
Reply #6

GlauG

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I'm in the process of looking for Castrol Super Clean right now, actually...  I'll test all of this stuff on the "spare" Strike-Freedom parts when I've found some.  

As for the paint on this model, I've never had much luck with Tamiya paint being anything but insanely thick and that's what makes up the dark metallic blue.  I've tried multiple light coats, but after a while it all coagulates as the thinner seems to eat up the paint below...    If I have any more problems with resin flaking, I may well strip and repaint the whole danged kit to be honest.  I'll see how the final couple of coats take and go from there. ^_^

November 16, 2006, 04:54:31 PM
Reply #7

clee-cm

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I am guessing that you are airbrushing, if this is the case, you need to used either Tamiya thinner, or 91% isoprophyl Alcohol to thin the paint out. The paint to alcohol ratio will vary from airbrush to airbrush.

Tamiya Paint is Acrylic paint, so using paint thinner with it is not a good idea,  the paint will chip and flake. if you need painting advice, FitchtenFoo has a good tutorial and advice is plentiful on this forum.

I have used Tamiya paint for years, and swear by it, Gunze Sangyo is another nice line of paints many of the Japanese model kits use color codes from this line of paint, but I find it is to expensive for what you get.

The only other thing I can think of is the primer and paint not being allowed to cure and set. I wait 3-4 days between priming, painting (each color), and coating.
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November 16, 2006, 05:39:48 PM
Reply #8

GlauG

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Sorry, should have specified;  the Dark metallic blue paint is a tamiya spraycan, the rest was airbrushed.  I'm fairly well-used to airbrushing Tamiya Acrylics, but I've used Gunze/Mr Colour lacquers for the past 2 years/7 kits or so until watching TrooperCooper use Tamiya on his Kampher made me dig up all my paint again.  

I know how easilly Tamiya acrylics (especially the flat colours) flake and scratch, but the flaking's different to how that's happened to me before, in that the primer is flaking off of the resin, sometimes for no aparrant reason.  It's been left a minimum of 24 hours between primer and painting, usually in a warm dry place (like the top of my monitor).  I get the feeling I just need to de-gunk the resin parts more effectively next time.

November 17, 2006, 06:23:46 PM
Reply #9

GlauG

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Just a few new pics.  Not done any more painting, but tried to get better lighting for a photo...  Not sure if it worked or not. <_<;  






The other thing is that due to my modified hip joints, I had to cut away part of the Freedom's stand in order for it to fit...  The stand then went and broke on me.  So, some "Big-size" Yellow Sub balljoints and clear acrylic rod later...  Apologies for the blurry pic.



If nothing else comes out of this project, I'm glad that it made me come up with something to do with these damned Ball-joints I bought by accident from HLJ <_<;;;  I'm tempted to experiment with double-jointed ones, and ones which are jointed at either end...  The acrylic itself is sturdy enough to deal with MG's Freedom's weight, even with the wings splayed out all over the place.  The only problem is that before I gave it a light sanding, the ball was too stiff!  It nearly broke the peg when I tried to move it in the slot.  

As for the actual figure itself, I'm kinda tempted to gloss-coat and decal it, but I'm not sure.  I'm not very happy with the current paintjob, but I don't know if I really feel up to totally stripping the thing, either.

EDIT:  Changed the photos for some naturally lit ones.  A bit bright, but does the paint more justice, especially the deep blue.

November 29, 2006, 01:02:45 AM
Reply #10

GlauG

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Well, I started a new job a few weeks back, so not much has been done on this (but I can afford to eat!  Yay!) but I've made a little headway with the display stand, since the regular Freedom one doesn't fit due to the mods I did to the hip area for the double joints.



The wooden plinth was just stained blue with airbrushing acrylic blue, and the sides done with black ink.  Retrospectively, I wish I'd waited to find some India Ink, but I've been having a tight time financially, so I could only really model with the stuff I already /had/.  



Unfortunately, I thought that some wood varnish would flatten the surface of the plinth a lot... it didn't.  I'm going to have to sand down and then re-stain the sides of the plinth when I'm done modelling the water, but at least now I know for future reference.



I'm not unhappy with the water, but I hate how slowly the acrylic gel stuff I'm using dries.  It's a mix of artist's acrylic gel for thickening and texturing paints and some Vallejo "pacific blue" water effects paint, which I think is just blue paint mixed with some of the same stuff...  I also think it looks kinda gross while it's drying, and my girlfriend made some truly unpleasant comments.  X_x  I actually experimented with this to custom-make beam shields ages ago, and it works okay, and does /eventually/ dry...   I just need to learn the art of patiently letting thin layers dry, rather than trying to sculpt up huge waves with small ones.  I figure in about two weeks it will have dried all the way through (it's been about 3 days so far).  

When it eventually dries, I'll probably add a little more of the gel to try and give it some more texture, and a little more of the blue for colour... then I'll do a little drybrushing with white for a "foam" effect.  No idea how well it will hold on the acrylic gel, but I guess it can't be that bad if I'm drybrushing acrylics.  Next time I try and do something like this, I'm tempted to sculpt then re-cast it in model railway heat-and-pour stuff instead...

November 29, 2006, 07:19:52 AM
Reply #11

braxat2000

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Hi,
About washing models before painting, a guy at our club swears by mineral spirits.

It also dries very quickly, and is mild enough to not hurt the resin or plastic.

November 29, 2006, 11:02:46 AM
Reply #12

GlauG

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Are Mineral spirits the same things as the turps substitute?  I remember someone saying that Turpenoid specifically was, but I haven't found the brand in the UK...  I'm going to strip some of the white paint with Cillit Bang, which sounds like our answer to Formula 409.

November 29, 2006, 11:14:55 AM
Reply #13

Scarylion

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Quote from: "GlauG"
I'm going to strip some of the white paint with Cillit Bang, which sounds like our answer to Formula 409.


Ha I can see the adverts now..

"HI IM BARRY SCOT!!!!!! AND IM HERE TO TELL YOU ABOUT CILIT BANG!!!!!! USE IT TO STRIP  YOUR GUNDAMS!!!! BANG AND THE PAINT IS GONE!"

honestly tho ive not tried using cilit bang but it may be a bit too strong, did nasty things to the stainless steel on my toaster.
size=9]In one episode of The Fresh Prince of Bel Air, Chuck Norris replaced Carlton for one scene and nobody noticed.[/size]

November 29, 2006, 11:29:25 AM
Reply #14

FichtenFoo

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Man... that looks too much like "clit bang" to be a proper product name. :evil: It's porn I tells ya!

November 29, 2006, 03:15:47 PM
Reply #15

GlauG

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Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Man... that looks too much like "clit bang" to be a proper product name. :evil: It's porn I tells ya!


:P  I thought the same thing, I didn't take it seriously until I saw it in stores. It's not as bad as how the gel looks though...  And it's actually pretty good at stripping paint, I've been testing it on Games Workshop miniatures.  Just using it to strip the "problem spots" on the resin on Freedom now.

December 03, 2006, 03:48:06 PM
Reply #16

GlauG

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Hmm.  Had a bit of a Gunpla session with TrooperCooper today, and got a bit done...  Did another coat of white to make the shading a hell of a lot more subtle, which is good.  The bad side is that some of the parts touched together while drying, and now the shield and one plasma cannon need to be sanded and repainted. >_<



At least the display base is coming along okay.  When the gel dries clear in a few weeks, it'll look swish.  I drybrushed the peaks a little, and will give it a gloss coat later...



The lighter blue parts also got a gloss topcoat of Tamiya clear blue, which helped even things out a bit on them as well.  In a few days I'll give it a proper assembly, slap on some decals and then do an enamel wash to bring out some of the panel lines.  I tried it on the railguns, but the colour's nowhere near as good as I thought it'd be.

December 03, 2006, 04:36:56 PM
Reply #17

Oliphont

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Curious, what did u make the water effect with?

December 03, 2006, 04:51:40 PM
Reply #18

GlauG

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Like I said a couple of posts up, it's done with acrylic gel and Vallejo "water effects" Pacific Blue Gel/paint stuff.  It's pretty cool, I'll be using more of it in future...

December 03, 2006, 05:51:17 PM
Reply #19

Oliphont

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It looks really neat, for a dio ive been doing i wanted it to be a beach scene, so i was thinking of good ways to get a sand/water effect.